FAQ for S&A CW3000 & CW5200 Chillers

Where can I find the manual for the CW3000 and CW5200?
What is the difference between the CW3000 and the CW5200 Chillers?

The CW3000 will only chill water to the ambient temperature of the room. This means that on a very warm day the CW3000 will only be able to chill to the temperature of the room it is located in. Both CW3000 and CW5200 have a temperature read out on their display panels. The CW5200 is capable to chilling water below the ambient temperature of the room.

What should I put in my chiller?

To ensure the minimisation of organic growth and calcium build up; any filtered, distilled, de-ionised or RO water is best for your chiller. Tap water can be used if checked and changed regularly, though is best avoided in hard water areas.

How do I check the water level of my chiller?

The CW5200 chiller has a fill gauge at the back. To Check the water level on the CW3000, unscrew the silver cap on the top of the unit. Using a flashlight visually check the level of the water. You can fill the CW3000 chiller to the base of the filler cap pipe about 50mm below the top of the unit itself. If you overfill the chiller it will overflow through the OUTLET nozzle at the back of the chiller.

How do I check the water condition in my chiller and how often should I check it?

At least once every three months, unscrew the silver cap on the top of your chiller to visually inspect the water inside it. Use a flashlight to illuminate the waters surface in the reservoir. If you see any scum or oiliness to the water or any discolouration change the water.

How do I fill my chiller?

The silver cap on the top of the chiller is the filling point. Unscrew the silver cap and use a funnel or spouted jug to fill your chiller. Wipe up any spilt water from the top of the chiller before running it.

How to: Drain your tube and chiller.

There are two silicone hoses/pipes that go between your laser cutter and the chiller. They're labelled IN and OUT on both the chiller and the cutter, IN on the chiller goes to OUT on the cutter and vice versa.

Once you've disconnected the chiller, move it to your drain (outside or wherever) and you can unscrew the top silver cap and the lower back left "DRAIN" spigot, this will allow the chiller to drain. Note the fill gauge.

I'd be tempted to leave the water that's already inside your tube and not drain it out. But, if you DO decide to drain that out too you can do this by gently blowing (with the aid of a silicone tube) into the WATER IN which will slowly push water and air through the system. You'll not get it all out without removing the whole tube so it's just not really worth it. I'd think that the small amount of old water in there will just be diluted into the new clean stuff.

When you've filled up your chiller (noting the fill gauge on the back) reconnect everything up as before being careful to connect IN to OUT and vice versa. When you switch the chiller on, check carefully for trapped air bubbles in the tube. You don't want those. If you get one squeezing the tubes will increase the pressure in the tube helping to dislodge. You may need to drain (the tube only) and try again if you have a stubborn one.